:: Breeding Reptiles in captivity

There is nothing quite like the warm glowing feeling you get from the first time you are successful in breeding reptiles. Often it can be a long process from hatchling to procreation especially for those who breed tortoises.

Here are a few considerations that may help prospective breeders are the way.

• Have animals of opposite sexes. Sex determination can be quite difficult in some animals. Depending on reptile, look for differences in build, head width, tail length colouration, femoral pores, spurs. Probe depth.

• Choice of partner. Some animals just will not mate with another of the same species for what ever reason. Others prefer communal groups, some require more that two males to be present and combat.

• Hibernation. This provides a stimuli for hormone production for the forth coming breeding season. Not all animals hibernate, read up carefully on your species.

• Climate and photoperiod. These alone can be a stimulus for breeding. Many tropical species are not subjected to a significant temperature drop but instead are stimulated by day length or a wet/dry period.

• Mating. This can last for a few days to months. Always check on the well being of your animals in this period. Males will often combat in groups and can inflict deep wounds that will need attention. Male lizards may leave several lesions on a females neck that may require Tama/peva/beta dine solutions. Male tortoises will also nip at the legs of females. Female tortoises and terrapins depending on species may also shut their plastron onto a males hemipenes (ouch!).

• Egg laying or birth of neonates. It will be noticed that the belly area will swell. There will be an increase in weight. A tendency to dig or become restless. Poor or no appetite. Skin shedding. Ensure there is somewhere for the female to lay or give birth. Failure to provide this can lead to the possibility of egg retention. Which can mean the animals will not breed again or die. Sometimes egg retention can be aided by injection of Oxytocin.

• Incubation of eggs. Many pythons in the wild will curl around their eggs and twitch to produce and maintain the correct temperature. Often in captivity the eggs are removed for artificial incubation. The females will refuse to eat until the normal period of incubation is over. Most egg layers however lay in burrows or mounds and abandon their eggs. Depending on species of reptile eggs can be hard or soft shelled. Healthy eggs are generally white. Eggs are usually incubated on damp vermiculite. 100g vermiculite to 80 – 100g water. Never turn reptile eggs after the first 24 hours. Incubation temperature will vary depending on origins of the species; the average used is 30?C.

• Incubation temperature. For many species this is very significant. Temperature can determine the ratio of sexes within a clutch; this is especially true of many lizards and crocodilea. Incubation time is influenced by temperature, however too hot or too cool for a period of time can deform or kill the embryo.. Size and growth of the embryo is better at the lower end of the range for many animals, producing stronger offspring.

• Rearing young. Most young require the same conditions as the adults, but in a smaller size. They are also prone to dehydration. Snakes will normally not feed until after they have had their first shed. Feeding is also better as little and often.

Each species has its little quirks. Happy breeding.

If you have managed to breed (or not) your animals why not jot your notes of your experiences down and send them To Colin Towler. You never know there may be someone out there you can help, or they you.

by Karen Hollingworth